Discovering Textiles from across the world

The Baluchari exhibition also resulted in bringing of a book titled Baluchars: The Woven Narrative Silks of Bengal edited by Jasleen Dhamija and brought out by Niyogi Publications, launched with the exhibition is another addition in this ongoing work to document the rich tradition of Baluchari weaving which reached its height and then vanished. The book with chapters contributed by various authors and experts, has in one place managed to collate and collect varied resources which make up the Baluchari tradition. No doubt, there must be lots of information and dimensions still unexplored, yet it does justice to the weaving which once was the cynosure of all eyes. The richly illustrated book is a feast to the eyes. The reading brings in a simplistic manner and tries to answer the various why and whats of this form of weaving. Jasleen Dhamija’s vast experience and expertise is amply evident in her chapter on Baluchari weaving. Jasleen Dhamija’s involvement with Baluchari’s revival at Be...

The world is moving towards yarns from eco friendly sources and those which are recycled and regenerated. As one researches into yarns and the various blends being developed in India, one comes across a wealth of possibilities and of course options. Though the blending is being done with cotton, there is immense potential to blend this with silk be it mulberry, tussar, eri or muga. Not only that while weaving it is possible to alternate such yarns with silk to have a blended fabric. The various blended yarns can be combined with silk be it in the warp or weft. It could be on the warp only or weft only or in a mix and match mode. One of the most innovative of entrepreneurs I have come across who is working with a host of yarns to produce some excellent fabrics is R. S. Balagurunathan (Bala) Managing Director, Anandi Enterprises. He has worked in a range of fibers, yarn and fabric involving organic cotton, project under BCI or better cotton initiative. He says, “we began in 2000 as ther...

The season of books and what they reveal continue. This is from the National Museum and titled  Textiles: Binding threads between Cultures from National Museum Collections.    What is good is that several books documenting collections in various museums and private collections is coming out. This makes available a vast variety of heritage textiles available in the public domain. Since most of them are not on display and need special permission to be viewed, these publications are useful for those who want to know more about the collection present. It is in this genre that the recent book brought out by the National Museum serves its purpose. This book aptly covers that. The book which has been in the making for some time now provides an interesting insight into the history of textiles and its historical significance. Dr. Anamika Pathak, Curator, Decorative Arts, National Museum, New Delhi tells me is that a two day symposium was held on the Embroidered Art of South of I...

Textile exhibitions in Delhi are few and far between, therefore this organised by The Royal Thai Embassy , New Delhi, Republic of India, in collaboration with The National Museum, New Delhi and The Thai Khadi Research Institute, Thammasat University was a stunner and eye opener to say the least. It had on display some fabulous selection of Thai Mudmee – weft ikat fom Thailand.  This was seeing a lot of it for the first time and what a sight to behold it was. The exhibition had on display fabulous Thai silk threads, there was a short film of the rearing of the cocoons to the reeling and weaving of the silk. What was a stunner was the brilliant single ikat on display. Single ikat unlike what we have seen from Gujarat,  Andhra Pradesh or Orissa. The depth of the motifs, colours all fit in beautiful. What added the extra dimension to the exhibition was the display of textiles both antique, vintage and of course contemporary. It not only helped understand the textile and its innova...

We do a book review this time,  this book Divyambara (Masterpieces of costume from the Collection of the National Museum) by Dr. Lotika Vardarajan with contribution from Sushmit Sharma brought out by the National Museum, New Delhi. Dr. Lotika Vardarajan, a Tagore Fellow passed away suddenly before the book could be released. It is an ideal tribute to her vast knowledge, enthusiasm and spirit in the world of revival and documentation of traditional crafts, arts and preservation of heritage of the country. The book can be called a catalogue, anthology, brief history of sorts of the textile collection at the National Museum. It traces the origins of the textile department which falls under the section of Decorative Arts and then the building of the collection. There are interesting insights which one does not get to hear. The introduction by Dr. Mani clearly states that unlike other Museums which had a repertoire of collected textiles presented to them or gifted to them to begin wit...

We had written about 3 wonderful designers and revivalists doing stellar work. We continue with another 3, each of whom is close to my heart and I am friends with. They work from weaves from their particular area and are dedicated. Sarees and Mekhela in natural dyes using Mulberry and Muga.  Image courtesy - Naturalli Anuradha Naturally Anuradha – Anuradha Kuli – There is just one word for Anuradhas’s creation – beautiful. A weaver who worked with the Sericulture Training Institute of the Silk Board,  before launching her own little brand. She effortlessly combines traditional motifs into contemporary textiles – mekhela, chadder and sarees. The colour combinations and the motifs are to die for. She has a very pretty petite lady belonging to the Miri (Mishing) Community of Assam. Two things that really strike about Anuradha’s creation is the brilliant colour combination and the choice of motifs. This together with her clever use of silk, mixing mulberry with eri, tussar and ...